The Secret of Our Ragù: From Nonna's Handwritten Recipe to the Tables of Locanda Tu Marchese
The scent of ragù on the stove is, for us, home. A warm embrace from morning. At Masseria Urbana A Locanda Tu Marchese, the kitchen is not just food. It is life. It is true sharing.
At the end of May we lived a special week. A total immersion in the food and wine culture of our territory. We had the pleasure of welcoming Emily, a wonderful soul.
To welcome her, we served our classic lasagne. Her enthusiasm for our ragù was overwhelming. Pure. She asked me the secret of that deep and enveloping flavour. I made her a promise: she would find it here, on our blog.
This article is for you, Emily! And for you who are reading this, if you want to bring a piece of our story into your kitchen.
A handwritten legacy
No shortcuts for a good ragù. Our recipe is family history. I still keep the original page written by hand by my grandmother. A yellowed sheet, stained with passata and oil. I learned it by heart as a child.
Our version combines the rigour of the classic recipe registered with the Chamber of Commerce of Bologna with the soul of our land. Excellent raw ingredients. And a great deal of patience.
The Choice of Ingredients: No Compromises
Perfect flavour requires perfect ingredients. The meat must not be too lean: the right balance between flesh and fat is needed. For the tomato, we choose the unmistakable sweetness of San Marzano tomatoes.
Ingredients (serves 4–6)
- Extra virgin olive oil, salt and black pepper: to taste
- 300 g coarsely minced beef: "Cartella" (brisket) or belly. Rich cuts that melt during cooking.
- 150 g flat pancetta: The fatty, sweet base for the soffritto.
- 50 g carrot, 50 g celery, 50 g golden onion: The holy trinity of Italian soffritto.
- 300 g San Marzano tomato passata: Full-bodied and never acidic.
- 1 tablespoon tomato concentrate: To maximise flavour and colour.
- ½ glass dry white wine (or light red): At room temperature.
- ½ glass whole milk: The secret touch. Makes the meat silky and reduces acidity.
- Meat stock: To keep warm on the side (approximately 1 litre).
The Method
- The base: Finely chop the pancetta with a knife until it forms a paste. Warm a drizzle of oil in a heavy-bottomed pot (cast iron or terracotta is ideal). Melt the pancetta over a gentle heat.
- The soffritto: Add the very finely chopped celery, carrot and onion. Leave to soften for 10–15 minutes. The vegetables must melt, never burn.
- Raise the heat: Add the minced meat. This is the crucial moment: the meat must brown, not boil. Break it up with a wooden spoon until it is thoroughly browned.
- Deglaze: Pour in the wine. Allow all the alcohol to evaporate. The bottom of the pot must start to sizzle again.
- The tomato: Add the concentrate and let it toast for one minute. Pour in the San Marzano passata. Stir and reduce the heat to the minimum.
- The "Pippiare" moment: Here the magic begins. Add a couple of ladles of warm stock. Cover, leaving a small gap. The ragù must simmer for at least 3 hours. It must, precisely, "pippiare". Check it and add more stock if it reduces too much.
- The final touch: 20 minutes before the end, add the warm milk. This historic step gives an incredible creaminess. Season with salt and pepper.
From pot to plate
The result? A dense ragù. Glossy. Amber-coloured. Ready to embrace fresh egg pasta, béchamel and Parmigiano in your lasagne.
Emily, we hope this scent, recreated in your kitchen, brings you back for a moment to here in Matino. Among us.
Buon appetito!